You probably have heard of the term, “bespoke”, but still didn’t understand what it really means. Aside from the obviously derived term, “been spoken for” or “to speak of”, there’s more meaning that relies upon this term. This guide is a long one but this will be your best capsule to make you a pro with bespoke suits.
1. A full-floating canvas suit
A true bespoke suit is a full-floating canvas or full-canvas canvas suit. The suit is done through traditional tailoring method and that 98% of the garment is handmade. The interlining of the suit is hand sewn with haircloth, horsehair canvas, and felt. With this procedure, the suit conforms to the body well over time. Another method in tailoring is “fusing,” this requires only limited time to finish a suit. It has paste or fusing materials that put together the interlinings of the suit. The downside is that over time, the paste wears out and creates visible bubbles on the coat. A full-canvas suit lasts longer.
2. Unique pattern
Off-the-rack and made-to-measure suits are based on an existing pattern, while in bespoke, the master tailor creates a unique pattern based on his client’s measurements. The exclusivity of the suit takes places when the client has its own pattern. Every after fitting, the master tailor takes note of the adjustments and updates the pattern.
3. A bespoke suit always fits.
A bespoke suit, in its truest form, always fits. In Savile Row, the undisputed international home of bespoke tailoring, at times it takes around 10 fittings (6-months even!) to perfect the suit. Every part of the suit is keenly observed. A client can demand any possible changes to his suit. From tightening the waist of the coat or slimming the lapel, a bespoke suit is exclusive and personal to the wearer.
4. Master tailor
Choosing a good tailor makes up a bespoke masterpiece. Bespoke tailoring is a higher level of tailoring, one should be a master tailor to make a bespoke suit. He’s the one who gauges the client’s body proportion. Every peculiarity of his body is noted, even his lifestyle. As much as possible, a bespoke suit of the client should only be attended by the master tailor himself in the fitting room. He personally makes the exclusive pattern of each of his clients. The success of a bespoke suit comes with the expertise of the master tailor and his whole staff.
5. Quality fabric
A suit is a bespoke suit when sewn with a quality fabric. There’s a wide selection of fabrics to choose from, even the linings of the coat.
There are misconceptions about using wool as a suit fabric, especially in a tropical country like the Philippines. Some would think that it is too warm for the climate. Wool has different weights and weaving. The weaving of the wool is called the warp and weft. “Weft” is the thread which is woven over and under the warp. “Warp” is woven lengthwise that holds tension on a loom to create the fabric. The thread count defines the fineness of the wool. Super 100’s-160’s are considered quality wool. Pure wool is highly recommended rather than fabrics with high polyester content because that tends to become shiny when ironed/pressed over time.
6. Handmade buttonholes
The quality of a bespoke suit is evident on the handmade buttonholes, be it the sleeves, the chest and the lapel buttonhole. A handmade buttonhole is a luxurious detail to a bespoke suit. The fineness of the buttonhole reflects the amount of needlework of a finisher, it reveals no short time of practice and technique.
A bespoke suit is a hand-stitched masterpiece that every gentleman should understand. A gentleman wants choices but in the end, he wouldn’t want to be just one in a rack of a dozen suits. Bespoke tailoring makes a gentleman wear a suit as a gift of total ownership and exclusivity. Harry Hart from the Kingsman: Secret Service said, “The first thing every gentleman needs is a good suit. By which I mean, a bespoke suit, never off-the-peg.”
Visit our showroom today and order your very own bespoke suit! We are located at 114 G/F Herco Center, Benavidez St. Legaspi Village, Makati City. Call us at (02) 511-1274.