Tiño has been an authority in creating bespoke suits crafted by passionate Filipino artisans. While Tiño still has a flourishing store in Makati specializing in bespoke suits, shirts, and barongs, Tiño now has ready-to-wear casual jackets. Tiño has partnered with Urban Traveller & Co. in Greenbelt to cater to gentlemen who can just swing by and buy no less than hand tailored garments.
Tiño showcases Neapolitan jacket (“Giacca Napolitana” in Italian) as if it was handmade in Naples, Italy. Trained by an Italian tailor in Penne, Italy, Tiño master tailor Napoleon Arienza creates his version of a Neapolitan jacket without taking the major points why a Neapolitan jacket is a “Neapolitan jacket”.
- Shirt shoulders
A Neapolitan jacket, first and foremost to be noticed is made with a soft shoulder. It could be made with minimal pads or no pads at all.
Spalla camicia has minimum pads, this is more evident for Neapolitan sports jackets. Its construction is similar to a shirt sleeve wherein the seam allowance is tucked against the shoulder, not against the sleeve. Because of its construction, natural puckering is formed flowing down from the sleeve head.
On another hand, a Neapolitan suit is constructed with Con rollino (with roll) which shows a protruding bump or roll between the shoulder blade and the sleeves.
Minimal silk lining inside the jacket is also known in a Neapolitan jacket. This inner construction provides lightness, it is meant to fit like a second skin but still upholds a good structure of the jacket. This construction is not limited to Neapolitan tailoring, it is also seen in many summer suits in Saville Row.
- Tre bottoni stirato a due (Three-roll-two) chest buttons
For a single-breasted coat, the third button is hidden under the lapel roll, when ironed, it gives a roll that folds over the button. Unlike the 2 buttonholes, the third buttonhole is handmade into the lapel but in an upside-down manner. Its purpose is to have extra freedom of movement provided by a lower front opening.
- Barchetta (little boat) and pignata (pot-shaped) pockets
The chest pocket of a Neapolitan jacket is formed like a stylized “little boat” with a rounded bottom while the side pockets are also equally curved that similar to the shape of a pot. This particular element of the coat contributes to the sophisticated and elegant aesthetic of a traditional Neapolitan tailor.
- Handmade final stitching
Tiño finishes each coat with a handmade final stitching, however, in creating a distinct Neapolitan jacket, the final stitching is a double handmade backstitch that runs along the sides of the lapel and pockets. The double backstitch on the lapel is also called Doppia Impuntura. This creates an impeccable and stunning detail as expected from the works of a Neapolitan tailor.
- Shorter Sleeve length
Neapolitan tailoring is all about comfort, because of this, the sleeve length of a coat shorter than usual, which avoids extra fabric hanging when a gentleman raises his hands more often. Also, Neapolitans love to show off their elegant shirt cuffs, shorter sleeves just give enough limelight to their cufflinks.
- Wide Lapels
One classic element of suits that is applied in Neapolitan jacket is the wide-width lapel whether it’s for single-breasted or double-breasted coats. It is also famous for its classic a punta (peaked) lapel which is wide as four inches.
A Neapolitan jacket has a higher opening over the shirt, it is perfectly parallel to the lapels. This is also called scollo a martiello (hammer neck). This construction creates an illusion of a slender and taller figure.
- Deep side vent
Neapolitan jackets go up to 12 inches deep. The darts (“pences” or “riprese”) in the front go all the way down, to help the fabric follow the shape of the body
- Occhiello (little eye)
The lapel buttonhole shapes like an elongated almond shape which is slightly short and thicker compared to regular buttonholes of an English suit. This is detail of the jacket is also handmade.
- Handmade sleeve buttons
A signal of a bespoke suit is having functional or working buttonholes, this is already a signature of Tiño, however, for the Neapolitan jackets, it will be non-functional but still handmade. This is to give allowance for a tailor to tweak the sleeve length to compensate the requirements of the client. Tiño sleeve buttons will be stacking, overlapping on each other.
Find Tiño Casual Jackets: Neapolitan Jackets, Safari Jackets, shoes, bags and more at Urban Traveller & Co., 2nd floor of Greenbelt 5.